Duarte Pio is a soft-spoken, unassuming 62-year-old who would be king of Portugal. Pio would by birthright be sovereign if Portugal restored its monarchy, and he has been using public interest in ...

Where Spain has lively bars, Portugal has quiet patisseries. One hotel receptionist complained about Spaniards talking loudly on the phone at check-in and told me “there is a need for rules”.