Forget tight cobblestone streets and pretty piazzas. The best pizza is hiding in a grimy laneway – and requires an open mind.

Trapizzino in Rome is one of the city's favorite street ... There's a special union with plain pizza." The company has five locations in Rome, seven in the rest of Italy, and one in New York.

This isn’t the Rome I pictured, but the man at our guest house insists this is where we’ll find the city ... pizza, and was recently named the best pizza in Rome and fifth-best pizza in Italy ...