where Portofino slowly comes into view. From Santa Margherita Ligure, you can either walk or take a bus to Portofino. In summer, there’s also a ferry between the two towns. We always walk ...

Over breakfast—crusty bread with prosciutto and a white peach—I decided to trek from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino instead. Trains zip along the coastline between Genoa and La Spezia ...