How best to see Italy’s dreamy Ligurian coast? Follow the ancient cobblestoned paths that wind from town to town. Although it certainly sees its share of visitors—primarily to the stylish town ...

Church bells echoed through the sunny piazza as I plopped down on a stone bench, digging my plastic spoon into a cup of basil gelato. I’d hiked about 5 miles that morning. I had another 5 to go.