Over breakfast—crusty bread with prosciutto and a white peach—I decided to trek from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino ... well-heeled bathers bask at beach clubs ringing a cerulean cove.

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I have frequently passed Santa Margherita dei Cerchi on tours, grumbling tongue in cheek about why it’s called Dante’s Church when Beatrice is the one buried there until one guest’s comment caused me ...

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